Vibrator harness

This vibrator/plug harness has swappable front panels that allow for most kinds of anal play. The front panel contour works very well with clitoral/g-spot or “couples” vibrators such as the We-Vibe Unite.

This harness design can be unfastened from the front, allowing access when the wearer is seated, standing, or lying down. When the single strap front panel is used, including a staple from a small padlock hasp or barrel bolt can make the harness lockable if desired.

The split rear version of the front panel can be snapped on to the waist strap instead of the single strap front panel, then the straps are wrapped around each leg and hooked on to a waist D-ring to hold a vibrator in place during anal play.

Tools

• Sewing machine
• Glover’s needle and sailor’s palm (or an awl and heavy needle)
• Rotary cutter and ruler
• Hobby knife
• Drive punch
• Rivet setter and anvil
• Snap setter and anvil
• Cutting board
• Hammer
• Locking pliers
• Needle files
• Measuring tape
• Pencil and ruler
• Water pencil

Materials

• Chap leather
• Matching garment leather
• Matching thread
• 24 x medium rivets
• 8 x tall snaps
• 2 x 19mm (3/4″) D-rings
• 2 x 25mm (1″) heel-bar buckles
• 2 x 13mm (1/2″) split D-rings (for split rear)
• 2 x 13mm (1/2″) heel-bar buckles (for split rear)
• 2 x small spring clips (for split rear)
• Padlock hasp or barrel bolt (optional)
• Paper

Instructions

• Mark and cut the strapping as shown from chap leather, and the upper and lower panels from matching garment leather.
• Align the halves of each pair of front panels grain sides together and sew along the front edges 5mm (3/16″) from the edge.
• Trim the front seam allowances down to 2mm (1/16″).
• Trim the top of the front panels flat if necessary.
• Ensure each upper and lower panel is large enough to cover the front panel at the top (and bottom for the lower panel) of the front seam. Any excess can be trimmed after gluing.
• Apply contact cement to the flesh side of each upper and lower panel. Place each upper panel at the top of the joined front panels, and the lower panel at the base of the front seam (split rear only), while the contact cement is still wet. Press very firmly over the full surface of each and let dry overnight.
• Trim the lower panel to match the contour of the base of the front panels.
• Sew around the perimeter of each upper and lower panel 2mm (1/16″) from the edge.
• Cut an opening in the center of the main eyelet strap to match the staple being used. Place the staple in the opening and mark rivet holes through the holes in the staple. (Omit staple opening and rivet holes if not including padlock staple.)
• Mark the four snap holes surrounding the opening in the main eyelet strap, keeping the diameter of the snaps in mind. Punch these holes where marked.
• Use the rivet and snap holes on the main eyelet strap to mark corresponding rivet and snap holes on the main buckle strap. (Do not cut a staple opening on the main buckle strap.)
• Use the opening and snap holes on the main eyelet strap to mark corresponding opening and snap holes on each pair of front panels, taking care to ensure symmetry and a right angle mating to the main buckle and eyelet straps.
• Cut the staple opening through the front and upper panels with a hobby knife.
• Punch the remainder of the holes where marked, and cut the slots.
• Fix the staple in between the buckle and eyelet straps with large (or appropriate size) rivets.
• Set the male halves of the snaps in the holes surrounding the staple in the buckle and eyelet straps.
• Set the female halves of the snaps in the front panels.
• Fix a 19mm (3/4″) D-ring to the main eyelet and buckle straps with retainer straps and medium rivets.
• Fix the 25mm (1″) buckles to the main and vertical buckle straps with medium rivets through the holes closest to the buckles.
• Fix the keepers in place with medium rivets.
• Fold the vertical buckle strap over the main buckle strap so that all the holes line up. Fix in place with medium rivets.

For split rear

• Sew each split rear keeper in a loop grain sides out with a glover’s needle using a square seam. Slide one on each split rear buckle strap (attached to the front panel) so that the seam is on the flesh side of the strap.
• Fix each 13mm (1/2″) buckle to a split rear strap through the holes closest to the buckles with a medium rivet.
• Slide each keeper up to the corresponding buckle rivet, then set the second rivet in each strap in place, securing the keepers.
• Twist open each 13mm (1/2″) split D-ring with locking pliers, hook on a spring clip, and twist back. Do not pull the D-ring apart – twist it using locking pliers and extra pliers if necessary.
• Fix each D-ring/spring clip assembly to a split rear eyelet strap with medium rivets.